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By this time you have successfully created an overall wash, and then worked succeedingly darker washes into the picture, thus defining the basic shapes. After the paper was dry, you sponged in the trees and trunks, and by now the picture is looking really, really fine, BUT it seems to be lacking in fine detail.

Enter the Dry Brush.

Very important - make sure the paper is dry!

For grass, you can use an old stiff bristle brush, tooth brush, or anything with a little arthritis in the bristles. Simply sc anything with a little arthritis in the bristles. Simply scrub it into the paint on your palette and dry brush it where the grass should be. Don't press too hard - the idea is a light dusting so that the individual bristles make individual lines. The dry brush is excellent for all textures, weeds, rocks, old wooden barns etc. (Click here for an example of this technique)

If you have a Rigger Brush (long, thin one), take advantage of its natural spring to create fine stems, weeds, branches, etc. I find it works best to hold it by the very tip of the handle. Aim it straight down and flick it across the paper in a somewhat jerky motion, letting the natural spring of the bristles guide it. Thus you create natural looking stems or branches. (Click here for an example of this technique)

As a final touch you can use a DRY sponge to lightly dab the final little clumps of leaves and flotsom over the dry-brushed stems anr the dry-brushed stems and branches.

These processes require that the paper be dry or you will lose the fine edges. Dry your paper. The biggest mistake in dry brushing is not having the paper dry!!

You have now created your first watercolor! Aren't you proud of yourself?

Windspinner - (wondering if apple cider or kool-aid would be a suitable substitute for water in a watercolor?)
©1997 John Beckwith